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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.