Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
